September 6, Reflections

September 6, Reflections A month-long, cross-country, 3,570 mile bike ride reminds us of many life lessons: Having something to positively anticipate, even if accompanied by anxiety, creates new energy. Minimizing the regrets in life is important. Realizing that trying something, as unrealistic as it may seem, and not achieving the goal, carries less regret than not trying an “unrealistic” idea. We can carefully plan in pursuit of a goal, relationship, etc., but we are unable to anticipate all that lies ahead. Surprises are likely. We can learn much about ourselves through taking a risk, pushing our limits, venturing into the territory of the unknown, despite the accompanying anxiety or fear. Perhaps most of the “impossible” or “improbable” can be broken down into manageable pieces. “One day, or mountain, or hour at a time.” We can usually push ourselves beyond what we believe our limits to be. Sometimes we are fortunate. Sometimes not. Pain is sometimes a reality. How we evaluate it, determine risks and integrate it into our lives becomes essential. Much of how we entertain or distract ourselves in life interferes with the pursuit of our goals and meaningful cultivation of our relationships. (I was struck that in knowing nothing of what was transpiring in the world, I missed very little.) Being actively engaged with a task or goal is much more enriching and peaceful than being passively entertained. Joining with others, and even depending on stronger others at times, can make life easier, and even possible. In climbing mountains, the journey is often pretty lonely and one is on one’s own much of the time. Life is like that. Usually, something exists to focus on with worry. A naïve determination to start the day and figure it out along the way can usually carry us through. (I never really had a plan B.) Being held in the prayers of others is quietly comforting and reassuring. Prayer reminds us that we are a part of something much bigger. (My 98 year old mother reminded me each time we talked, that she was holding all of us in prayer.) Our accomplishments are rarely achieved in isolation. Gratitude for the support and encouragement of a team of family, friends and colleagues is honest, connects us with the larger world, and humbles us. Routinely reminding ourselves that all of life is a gift is important. Sometimes we do not fully understand why we want to do something. Sometimes we just “know.” Much of life is a mystery. Often, explaining what we have experienced in a few words is impossible. Truly, “you had to be there.” It was one phenomenal, unforgettable, thrilling, satisfyingly painful month. Life has times that are ineffable, beyond words and explanation. The ride was one of those times. --Ellery Duke, August, 2013

September 5, Postlude

September 5, Postlude I want to share some closing thoughts on the bike ride across the country. Since returning home, the pain in my hip has captured most of my attention and interfered with my capacity to reflect until now. The orthopedist believes I activated some arthritis in the hip, and is working toward getting that calmed down. An MRI was negative for any other problems in the hip area. In looking back over the month of the ride, I find it to be a non-stop blur that filled my life with room for nothing else. One rider described it as ride, refuel, recover, sleep, repeat, day after day. I had little idea of what was going on in the world—never watched TV or read a newspaper. I had thought prior to the ride that I would have time to socialize and do some interesting tourist things. I soon realized that my purpose was to ride across the country, and that all my time and energy would be focused on that goal. Also, in looking back, I have some difficulty understanding how I was able to accomplish this goal. I had occasionally ridden back-to-back one hundred mile days, and once three back to back centuries. I knew that the ride would be a challenge, but reality was a bigger challenge than I had imagined. I realized early on that looking beyond the next day was not helpful, and created a sense of worry. I knew that I could ride 120 or so miles, and if that was my focus, I felt confident that I could do that the next day. I knew that I routinely rode 30 miles in 1.5-2.0 hours, the distance between the breaks for refueling each day. If I could focus on those smaller bites, and string those segments and the days together, I could keep my confidence up by believing that each day was doable. Also, with the steep climbs, I knew that once I got to the top, the reward was a thrilling descent of 10 or so miles at 30-40 mph. Pushing beyond what I would have assumed to be my limits became routine. My determination wavered at times, particularly with the hip pain, but focusing on the goal sustained me when physical pain and headwind discouragement, had me questioning whether I could or even wanted to continue to pursue the fantasized goal. At times, I wondered why I ever wanted to do this. I even tried to come up with someone to blame. Other parts of the mental battle: If I were to quit, how would I get home? Who would I disappoint? I realized that I would disappoint myself. Probably everyone else would understand quitting as making sense. By about the third day, my daughter, Amy, told her mother, “The problem with Dad is that he won’t know when he needs to take a break.” As the hip pain persisted, I wondered how bad it would need to get before I could not take it anymore. But then, my thoughts shifted: If I could get some rest and get up the next morning, and start out, I could do that first 30 miles…. An important mental aspect of the ride was the beautiful and varied scenery that kept the days interesting. Bodies of water, forests, snow-capped mountains were experienced as glimpses while riding hard much of the time. On the other hand, staying alert to the fact that traffic was often a few feet away, demanded its own focus, as well as capacity for denial. I would never want to ride on the shoulder of I-80 toward Council Bluffs or Iowa City. On any bike ride, it is impossible to anticipate everything that might become a challenge. The need to find a new bike computer at Walmart in Ludington, MI, at 9:00 p.m. was essential in order to follow the cue sheet for the next day. Having a bike shop employee roommate was fortunate. The day with two flats and decision to replace my tire was a gamble that worked out, while also adding a time pressure element to that already stressful day. Bottom line is that I am as delighted that I wanted to take on the challenge of the ride, as I am that I achieved the goal of riding cross-country. The sense of satisfaction is indescribable. Many people were involved with this endeavor-- Most longer distance bikers benefit from having someone who functions in an enabling, supportive role. Marsha has provided that support for 30 years. She discovered the 1973 ride across Iowa that became Ragbrai, and she supported Amy Ellen and me when we rode number 10 in 1982. She has rescued me from flat tires and mechanical breakdowns. I have always been biking on Saturday mornings rather than accompany her to the farmers’ market. Marsha has said, “If you are going to ever do this, now is the time.” Then, she spent the month alternating between encouraging and worrying. Seeing her in Albert Lea was a wonderful connection to reality. Amy Ellen and Ben have constantly led cheers for me over the years, and they offered their constant presence and encouragement throughout this ride. Ben’s music selections were uncannily right on. Two year old Gabriel’s phone calls, encouraging me to take more EPO enhanced my strength. My mother’s prayers were a reminder of her constant presence. My brother’s encouragement and the serendipitous connection with his daughter, Holly, and her family in Rapid City, were wonderful. The support of the Pastoral Counseling Center’s board and staff made this 5-week endeavor possible. The board granted me the time away. With our fine staff, the Center functioned flawlessly, and both board and staff supported the fund-raising element of the ride. All the donors and blog-watchers helped the Center raise more than $30,000 for our Counseling Assistance Fund. My weekend riding group of Jim, Mike, Andy, Mark, Patrick, Rob, and others have kept me in shape while I have chased them over the years and miles. The folks at Bike World where I purchased my Trek Madone a few years ago were encouraging and told me I would have a great time. Ernie Fisher had the bike tuned and equipped to handle the mountains. I had no mechanical problems. All the folks who expressed interest and encouragement, all who worried some and were with me in spirit—I felt your presence.

August 7, Stage 32

August 7, Ashland, VA to Williamsburg, VA, 80 miles, 1250 climbing feet. Great postlude ride to Yorktown. With dinner tonight and packing of bike, I will write some more tomorrow. I am delighted to have accomplished this, and overwhelmed with the support of all of you. You will never know how much your prayers, messages and thoughts have meant. I need a little rest for a few days. Life is good! Ellery

August 6, Stage 31

August 6, Harrisonburg, VA to Ashland VA, 123 miles, 4300 climbing ft. Ride began with some flat and then a four-mile climb over the Blue Ridge Parkway at 22 miles. Brought back memories of the ride that Jason and Amy Ellen suggested that I take a week prior to their wedding 5 years ago. They lived in DC and arranged for me to ride to their wedding down Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway in a week. I think that it was around 600 miles--wonderful ride, with a few 100 mile days and a few 10,000 climbing feet days. Besides Amy Ellen's brother Ben, no one else thought that it was a good idea right before the wedding--"What if you have an accident, and ruin the wedding?" I was thinking of that on every single curving 35-40 mph descent the whole way. Unmatched enjoyable experience. PACTour has been gruelling, partly because of so long. Today began last night when I decided that the pain in my hip was severe enough that I would try the hospital emergency room again. Treated well, given a couple medications, that have not helped so far. On the bike I am fine, but walking is excruciating. Also, ended up with about 5 hours of sleep. The ride went well, but I am pretty well spent. Followed Marcy 30 miles with no stops into lunch. Then, rode pretty well on ups and downs to the end, until, with about 3 miles to get into Ashland, going up a hill, I was having trouble focusing and even holding onto the bars. Think I was overheated also. A couple of other riders stopped with me just as I was braking rather than falling over. Cooled down a little and made it in. Feel fine now, except for having ridden 3500 miles in the past month. Really weary, but the end is in sight. Tomorrow is flat and about 80 miles to Williamsburg, then a few pictures, ride back to the hotel, pack up the bikes and prepare to leave Thursday morning. Marsha will meet me in St. Louis, drive us to my 50th high school reunion--I will have some things to report on my recent life--then back to DM on Sunday, where I will promptly fall asleep each afternoon. The ride today was again spectacular, through winding county road, wooded areas, through Virginia agriculture areas--maybe peanuts--chased by dogs--I almost hit one--went by James Madison's home, Montpelier--did not stop for a tour, but it would be nice. Hundreds of places would be nice to visit with time. Spent some time on Monrovia Road. It along with Otterbien United Methodist Church in Harrisonburg yesterday, were some of the continuing United Methodist marks on life out here. Did see two Disciples of Christ churches and a Unitarian/Universalist Church, so Methodists do not corner the market. With the hurried schedule and all the visual images floating by all the time, and the effort of biking hour after hour safely, etc., etc., still have no time to reflect on the experience. That will come in time. Still have to get to Williamsburg tomorrow, which has been the driving goal.

August 5, Stage 30

August 5, Elkins, WV to Harrisonburg, VA, 107 miles, 10,500 climbing feet, by far, the most for any day of the tour. Perfect riding weather, total fog at the start, then lifting, revealing stunning terrain. On Route 33 most of the day. The main contributor to the climbing feet total was seven 2 mile to 4 mile climbs, the toughest as the last two. Then, 25 miles into Harrisonburg, with ups and downs along the way. The climbs were tough, at about 5-9 percent gradient. I told Marsha last night that the Grand hill from 63rd to 56th is about 8-9 percent, but it is over in less than a half mile. I think that I am repeating myself. The winding descents were wonderful. I was the last one in again, due to my slow climbing. Was a tough, but satisfying day, until I got off the bike and the gradual return of the hip pain was back in full force. The shot in Missoula has been wearing off for a few days. Tomorrow has an early climb up to the Blue Ridge Parkway, then flattish ups and downs into Ashland, VA. Got to get to bed.

August 4, Stage 29

August 29, Parkersburg, WV to Elkins, WV, 123 miles, 7200 climbing feet. This was a day that I dreaded given the length and the amount of climbing, but unanticipated things can make dread worse. Morning started just great, riding on the shoulder of US 50, which by the way runs cross country about 11 miles from my hometown in southern Illinois (100 miles east of St. Louis). A few years ago, NPR did a series on US 50--I forget who narrated the series--followed it all across the country. Anyhow, the mist and clouds hung over the forested mountains--looked like the home page for Google Chrome. This was the Robert C. Byrd Appalachian Highway. All was well until I had a flat rear tire about two miles short of the first stop at 28 miles. Fixed the flat, which I hate to do--could not find anything in the tire. A half mile later, the new tube was flat. I assumed something was wrong with the tire. Decided to ride it flat to the re-fueling stop, which is risky. The guy handling the stop had a tire that would fit and a couple of spare tubes. I changed the tire and the tube, but that takes time. By this time, I was quite a ways behind everyone else and PACTour does not like for folks to not keep up. The guy handling the stop offered to sag me ahead to the next stop--20 miles, but I declined. Got to the next stop and was told that I was on the bubble as to whether I would be mandatorily sagged forward to lunch--30 miles ahead. I refueled, grabbed some cookies and Pringles, and headed out. One couple on a tandem was right behind me and they were sagged. I was feeling performance pressure, so was not able to enjoy the old cars, Lazy Boys on the front porch, and general poverty reflected on the beautiful narrow road that would up and down and in and out for 20 miles or so. The road had been carved out of the side of the mountain many years ago, reflecting the terrain, rather than modifying it. Looked like sandstone, with a pretty good drop-off five feet away from the edge of the road. Lots of potholes and attempts to patch worn areas. Took at picture of the Churchville Methodist Church--they have not added United to the sign. Beautiful scenery--I know, I keep saying the same thing. John Denver's song describes it head on. Once one is off of the interstate system, the WV world is special. I pulled into lunch on the grounds of the Weston Lunatic Asylum, the largest sandstone building in the world, except for the Kremlin. It must be 500 feet long and five stories tall. Lobotomies, and who knows what other "advanced" treatment of patients who were depressed, anxious, probably with undiscovered/unacknowledged abuse, etc. They give tours and have a museum of the treatment used. It has been closed for years. I was the last one in at lunch. One thing that I enjoy every other day when it is available is Tapioca. I found then that Susan had set up the next refueling stop at 99 miles to wait for me if I wanted to ride all the way. I left lunch at 2:00 and headed into some pretty good, slow hills. Made it to the stop, where the guy in charge of it graciously had waited for me and had thought of driving the route to see if I was okay. I was pretty well wiped out at this point, but realized that I was on my own and it did not matter how long it took. A couple of 2-3 mile steep inclines had me in my lowest gear, but then I began to notice the shadows from the trees across the road. I slowed down and began to enjoy the trip, keeping an eye on the cars and trucks that occasionally flew by. Finally got into Elkins about 6:00--stopped at Walgreens for some additional saddle sore medication, and McDonald's for supper. My roommate, Dave, had my bag in the room, as usual, and had tossed some of my shorts from yesterday into the laundry. Tomorrow, on to Harrisonburg, VA. 10K or so feet of climbing, squeezed into 106 miles. About bed time for my legs. Up at 5:45, breakfast at 6:30 and head out at 7:00.

August 3, Stage 28

August 3, Circleville, OH to Parkersburg, WV, 101 miles, approx 3000 climbing ft. Beautiful day of riding, even with the rain for the first couple of hours. We were cleary moving toward the beginning of the mountains. Foggy cloudy mists hung over wooded peaks. After the rain, we had winding roads that draped overall the undulating terrain. We took a bike trail that skirted the campus of Ohio University, then on the shoulder of US 50. After lunch we had more beautifUl wooded winding roads for 10 miles, then more of the shoulder of US 50, which took us most of the way to the Ohio River and Parkersburg. 101 mile day helped, giving a chance for some added rest in anticipation of the next two mountainous days.

August 2, Stage 27

August 27, Lima, OH to Circleville, OH, 120 miles, approx. 1500 climbing feet. Southwest wind and we were headed south for the first 60 miles--I had nothing in my legs, was discouraged by most of the riders passing me by, my inability to hang onto a couple of pace lines. Maybe did not have enough for breakfast. Then, after the second refueling stop, I felt better--don't know if I can attribute some to the Mountain Dew. Felt good going into lunch at 80 miles, then popped some green pills and felt stronger the rest of the day. The route also shifted so that we had some east along with the south. After going through Jackson Center, Rosewood, and Urbana, the last half of the route was spent on Route 56, which wound back and forth, up and down, all the way to Circleville. Beautiful scenery of corn, soybeans, old and new large homes on acreages, or the home for the farm. Kind of like the routes that wind around the Loess Hills, without the climbing over the Hills. Yesterday, we crossed US Route 30, and I-94 and today, crossed I-70 and US Route 40. Saw quite a few signs for United Methodist Churches. Our Iowa UM Bishop Julius Trimble came from Ohio, which has a strong UM tradition. Circleville is quite an historic town/city--part of the early settlement movement of the country. Would be interesting to hang out in this area sometime. Actually, most of the places we have visited would be interesting to experience more than through an overnight motel room. In a nice Holiday Inn Express tonight. The next three days have much more long, steep climbing, the most of the tour. I am about the worst climber in the group. Have not been able to figure out why the quick descents do not balance out the slow, grinding efforts of climbing. The climbing takes forever, and the descents are over in a flash. Don't know how much more my legs have in them. Go to Parkersburg, West Virginia tomorrow.

August 1, Stage 26

August 1, Coldwater, MI to Lima, OH, 129 miles, approx. 1500 ft of climbing. Pretty flat, new computer does not measure altitude. Favorable wind out of west in the morning chaned to southwest as route headed south. Still averaged 16.7 for the day. Plenty of agriculture fields that looked good. Not the black dirt of Iowa,though. We crossed into a northwest corner of Indiana for a few miles this morning. In that small sample, farms/buildings were more run down than in MI or OH. A number of small towns looked like they had peaked 50 years ago,but some still had a United Methodist church functioning, much like IA,IL, and other rural areas--can't keep those young folks on the farm. Methodism seems alive and well in OH after seeing many Lutheran churches in MN and Reformed churches in western MI. Grand Rapids has a major seminary. Marsha asked me to comment on the difference between this ride and the Tour de France. TDF is much faster, no breaksthose pros are obviously in another league.. But some of the terrain would be similar. Iwill churn up the Appalla hians at about 5the mph. You wont see that in the TDF. On to Cir leville,OH tomorrow.p

July 31, Stage 25

July 31, Hudsonville,MI to Coldwater, MI, 2500 miles, 2500 ft climbing. Temps in the low 60s. A new dimension to the ride--rain. All day,mostly constant,sometimes heavy. Finished the day at 4:00, totally soaked. Not much else to the say about today. Steve, another psychologist, offered for me to draft him in the last 26 miles. Challenging to ride at his varying pace and avoid all the potholes in the road. Saved me a little, though. Actually,not easy to see through goggles in the rain. The Super 8 does not have a computer I can use, so I am pecking this out on my smartphone,while eating a Hungry Howie's pizza and salad,rather than walk a half mile or so in the rain to a fast food joint. Options in Coldwater are rather limited when one does not want to bike again in the rain. Did get another neck massage.p On to Ohio tomorrow.

July 30, Stage 24

July 30, Ludington, MI to Hudsonville (Grand Rapids), MI, 110 miles, 2500 climbing feet. Temperature high of 82--great day for riding, 6-7 mph headwind most of the day that was not too bad. A few hills out of Ludington, then rollers, then the last 40 miles were pretty flat. Route went through forest-lined areas that were gorgeous, then 12 bike trail miles, then about 20 on this wonderful, little-traveled winding, gentle up and down road through forests, then along shouldered and non-shouldered busy highways. The surprise was that the ride was supposed to be 121 miles, and ended at 111. The concern is that we will have a surprise 10 extra miles added to tomorrow's route. Quality Inn tonight. Yesterday, the 29th, was the Badger Car-Ferry day from Manitowoc to Ludington, a 2-hour preparation and loading time that embarked on a 4-hour trip from 2 p.m. Central to 7 p.m. Eastern as we switched time zones. Beautiful motel right on the Lake Michigan coast. The day and trip were welcome. I immediately sat down in one of the recliner chairs and was out like a light. The Badger had bingo, a game room, a quiet room, a gift shop and everything that one might want for lake-going. Badger is the last coal-fired ship on Lake Michigan, about 60 years old. An unexpected problem was that my bike computer stopped working. A new battery did not solve the problem. Trying to follow a cue sheet with many turns at exact mileages, without a computer would be a problem. My bike-shop-employee roommate guessed that Walmart might have a computer. After a few calls to the Ludington Walmart and attempts to explain what a bike computer was, the electronics guy told me that they had what I needed. Then, at 8 p.m., do I get my bike out of storage and ride the 3.4 miles to Walmart or take a taxi? Rode out to Walmart, got the computer, along with a couple of Burger King grilled chicken sandwiches for my roommate and me, since we had not had dinner, got back to the room at 9:15. An advantage of having a roommate who works who has the best job in the world, working in a bike shop, and who specializes in installing bike computers, is that he took over and had the new computer set up and installed in about 10 minutes. I would have spent about 45 minutes reading and decifering the manual. The computer worked great today. Another nagging problem is that the hip bursitis problem that I eased with a Cortisone injection 2 weeks ago in Missoula is starting to come back. Fortunately, it is not a problem while riding. Hopefully, I can ward it off with the I-Vitamin for another week. The neck pain was non-existent today. The massage probably helped greatly. Should be a relatively flat day tomorrow. Heading to Coldwater, MI.

July 28, Stage 22

July 28, Portage, WI to Manitowoc, WI, 127 miles, 4000 ft climbing. Another chilly morning that stayed chilly all day. 49 degrees this morning, wih temps bouncing up toward 60, then dropping back down. Strong wind mainly out of the west, some north. Route stair-stepped east, then north, over and over again. A few steep climbs. The altimeter on my computer registered 16-17% grade on one short climb, and 11-12 on another. Those take everything to slowly keep the pedals turning. Rain threatened, showered some after lunch, but held off again until we were off the road. Beautiful countryside, with dairy cows, horse-drawn buggies and horse-drawn steel-wheeled wagons transporting logs, field-stone houses. Passed by a prison, had lunch in Mt. Calvary that has a huge church that would have been nice to explore. As it was, we rolled into town in the middle of a parade. I also did not stop at the Cedar Crest Ice Cream Factory. The major feature of arriving in Manitowoc is that we now take the Badger Ferry--steam-powered, I think--across Lake Michigan tomorrow afternoon, arriving in Ludington, MI about 7 p.m. Then back on the road Tuesday morning, headed to Grand Rapids. After the first two days of this 7-day period, with the headwinds, and high mileage, I had concern about being able to handle the next 5 days. Favorable winds and rolling hills, much like what I am used to in central Iowa, helped me to survive. I felt like crying upon getting here for a break day, but decided that would not be manly. Having the day off of the bike is a real gift. PACTour, 30 years old, in 90 crossings of the country, has never before taken a day off. These folks are hard-corps. Getting to sleep in tomorrow morning will be a change from awakening at 5:00, getting organized, getting the bike ready, eating breakfast and being on the road by 6:30. I am running out of interesting stuff to talk about. If anyone has curiosity about something, let me know. Mentally and physically, I am pretty worn down, but that does not seem to limit me once I get going in the morning. Had great conversation with Jonathon from Australia over great dinner of seafood and pasta. He is an oncologist. Says that the depression his patients have, and are willing to discuss with him, is an existential depression since life and death are the reality. He says that most people do not have someone to open up those questions. Going to have the hotel--EconoLodge--do my laundry tonight. I am going to hit the sack. Marsha tells me that Joyce and Harold Templeman and Bill Cotton all have birthdays around this time of year. I missed granddaughter Jackie's birthday last week. I was late acknowledging granddaughter Jackie's second birthday last week.

July 27, Stage 21

July 27, La Crosse, WI to Portage, WI, 128 miles, 4300 climbing feet. Wind NW. Sometimes, when you wish for cooler weather, you get it. La Crosse had record low temperature last night--49 degrees when we had breakfast in the Marriott Courtyard parking lot, and prepared to leave. At the last minute, I had put in my full-finger Wind-Breaker gloves, and my leg warmers, that I almost sent home with Marsha. I had also almost sent home a fleece lined PACTour jacket that I figured would be nice for rides in Feb/March in Iowa, or just to wear around and show off, as a conversation starter. Temps never got above 60 and stayed mostly in the upper fifties. I wore the jacket and leg warmers all day. Cloudy, overcast, beautiful clouds all day. Rain held off until right now. The day started out of La Crosse with a 600 elevation gain, 8-10% climb. I was about the last one up the hill, because most of these folks are excellent climbers. A couple have asked me where I do hill training in Iowa. (If I am repeating myself here, forgive me.) My hill training is mainly the Grand Ave hill from 63rd to 56th St., maybe 3/8 of a mile and 90 feet of elevation gain. Or, Pifer Hill on the way to New Virginia--9% grade, about a quarter mile. We had two more 8-9% climbs during the morning. Those really wipe me out. The last 60 miles were flattish, ups and downs on secondary roads through woods, forests--oak, maple, pine. Crossed the Wisconsin River. This was probably the most beautiful day of the trip. Somehow, Wisconsinites did not clear cut the trees, as did the farmers from my home state of Illinois. The vistas were picture-perfect, with the clouds as a backdrop. Hardly any pictures, since I had the full-finger gloves and wanted to beat the probable rain, so you will have to take my word for it. Or, you can asked Ben's wife, Joanna, who is a card-carrying Cheesehead. The cue sheet was 4 sheets today with all the turns that we made on these random, little-used roads. John and Cindy from DC ride a tandem--thirty-somethings. They have their route cue sheet fastened to the back of John's jersey, so that Cindy can look at it and inform John of the upcoming turns. After the route flattened out, I realized that I could follow them, relying on Cindy's directions to John. If I had not followed them, I might still be out in the Wisconsin woods. Tomorrow, on to Manitowoc, 125 miles.

July 26, Stage 20

July 26, Albert Lea, MN to La Crosse, WI, 140 miles (was supposed to be 127!), 3000 ft climbing. Perfect day of riding, although it did get a little long. Temps in the upper 70s/low 80s, strong wind out of the west and a little north, variety of scenery--looked like Iowa. Wandered around getting out of Albert Lea on county roads to first stop at 31 miles in Rose Creek. Then rode the Shoting Star State Bike Trail for 12 miles--it paralleled Route 56. Then began some nice rolling hills, kind of like from Martensdale to Osceola and Leon, kept going east, then north, over and over. At Preston, joined the Root River Trail, a popular trail that goes through Lanesboro, a very neat town that the bike trail enlivened years ago (Marsha and I spent a weekend there years ago, riding our tandem.), then on through Whalen, Rushford, and on to Houston--41 miles total. A nice break from highways, interstates, automobiles, trucks, etc. The trail looks a lot like the Raccoon River Trail from Adel to Panora, or the Saylorville Trail, only more overgrown with trees canopying nearly the whole distance. After the trail ended, took Route 16 up and down a few pretty good hills the final 22 miles into La Crosse. Took a couple of pictures of the Mississippi River. Arrived at our Courtyard by Marriott Hotel about 5:00. Felt pretty good today, although 140 miles gets kind of long. Marsha's visit yesterday, although brief, helped much. My new roommate Dave--probably mid-50s-- and I had pork loin dinners at Piggy's across the street. Dave rides like the breeze. For the past 20 years, his job has been at a bike shop in Omaha--knows bike world well, knows Bike World folks, organizes trips for customers, did the first half of the Northern Transcontinental 3 years ago, and is now back to complete it. He believes that he has the best job in the world. Hmmm. I thought that I did. Next two days crossing Wisconsin, 135 and 125 miles. More climbing. SW Wisconsin has some brutal hills. Really helps to have a non-headwind. Just want to get to that Badger Ferry for a day off.

July 25, Stage 19

July 25, Worthington, MN to Albert Lea, MN, 124 miles, 1500 climbing feet, according to the itinerary. Reluctant to check my computer altimeter since it was not always working accurately. The main theme of the day was the 15 mph wind out of the southwest that eventually moved more out of the west. We are headed east!! Most of the day spent moving along in the 18-22 mph range. Caught a couple of folks to draft off for awhile. Greg, a chiropractor from northern California, and his son Zack, power their tandem day after day. Zack lives to bike. On hills, he is out of the saddle most of the way up, which helps Greg alot. I rode about forty miles on my own, seeing many wind turbines, much like the Storm Lake, IA area. We crossed the Des Moines River in Jackson, MN. Did not stop at the Prairie Dog Museum in Fairmont. Afternoon stop was at an old historic gas station--garage/house. Rode awhile with Bob and Mike, the CT attorneys. They were moving along at 22-24 mph, which I could maintain for about 10 miles. Then, they were gone. Got into Albert Lea about 2:30, which was wonderful. Most days are rolling out of bed with some effort, needing more sleep, getting organized with whatever I will need during the day, eating breakfast in the parking lot (oatmeal is getting old), riding with the goal of trying to get as many miles in before the temperature gets into the 90s, refueling at the 3-4 stops during the day (they are spaced about 20-30 miles apart), arriving at the next overnight town, cleaning the bike, cleaning the body, doing laundry, eating, blogging, getting to bed. Each day is rather long, and all of them fly by in a blur. A surprise today was about 5 miles out of Albert Lea, this guy in a car passed me slowly, and yelled, "You are doing pretty good for an old man." The car then pulled off the road and out steps Mark Sherinian, a biker friend from Des Moines. He had been doing a deposition a few hours away and this was sort of on his way home. The main treat for the evening was that Marsha drove up from Des Moines. She brought a few things I needed and took back some of the extras I did not need. Her main concern was how stooped I am. She and Mark agreed that I may need a walker when I return home, or we will need to sign me up for a nursing home. She gave me advice on stretches that will help. We had dinner together before Mark headed back to Iowa. His quote for the evening: "Ellery, you are either a tribute to human endurance, or absolute stupidity." Having Marsha here was wonderful. She is the ultimate biker enabler. Having Mark surprise me was a real treat, also. They and my niece and her family in Rapid City have been the only people I have known previously that I have encountered for the past 2.5 weeks. Tomorrow crossing the Mississippi and into Wisconsin. Glad to hear from the grandchildren, who are all in Kona, HI right now. Why am I riding a bike across the country while they are enjoying themselves on a beach in Hawaii? The choices we make!! Regarding body report: shoulders very stiff, seat is uncomfortable, legs are getting worn down day by day, but keep going, ride is a pain in the neck, a little bruising in the palm of my hand. (I really appreciate your comments--I read all of them, and they are so encouraging. I sometimes do not have time to comment on them, and sometimes can't think of anyting articulate to say. This whole thing is rather disorienting--riding hard each day to get to another town whose main meaning is the overnight motel. I absorb your comments, think about them during the day and will have them as a precious treasure when I can slow down and absorb them. I am daily mindful of how much I appreciate so many people in my life, and how dependent I am on so many people. Actually, we are all very dependent on many people to get through life.

July 24, Stage 18

July 24, Mitchell, SD to Worthington, MN, 135 miles, 2,240 climbing feet. A non-headwind day, thankfully. Began with a 5 mph SW wind, that eventually shifted around out of the west and we were headed east all day. By the end, probably a 10 mph tailwind, which made today much more pleasant. A little less time in the saddle. Temp was not as hot as other days. Got in about 4 or so. The terrain and roads had the feel of Iowa and Ragbrai. Two other riders commented on the similarity. The further east we came, the less hilly. Pretty isolated, compared to travelling with 15-25,000 of my closest friends. Luverne, MN was the biggest city at about 5,000 pop. It is nice to see some civilization, of towns, more corn and soybeans, the smell of money at hog confinements, etc. Looked like some wetland preservation along the way. Got some hopeful help for my lip at Walgreen's. The big item for tomorrow is that Marsha is coming up to Albert Lea to check out my condition and offer encouragement. Many of us are trying to hang on to get to the ferry boat ride across Lake Michigan next Monday--a day off the bike. Laundry is done and drying. Bedtime.

July 23, Stage 17

July 23, Murdo, SD to Mitchell, SD, 145.3 miles, 2750 climbing feet. 9:49 hours in the saddle. Yesterday was 8:48 hours. Another day of 10-15 mph winds out of the east, and we were again headed straight east. Miserable day. Got in about 6:00 p.m. Rolling hills in the morning, somewhat like western Iowa, except western Iowa hills are steeper. Not a whole lot to see besides hay, corn, and soybeans. When Amy Ellen and Ben were 2-4 years old, Marsha and I would try to teach them the difference between corn and soybean fields while we were traveling. Took awhile, since it was a complex concept, but they eventually caught on. Feels like home. The only interesting landmark was the neat bridge that crosses the Missouri River at Chamberlain. I hung with a group in a pace line for while, but they were to strong for me. Then rode by myself until Bill, Jill and Jose came along. Bill led the way for the next 75 miles, mostly on his aero bars, with the other three of us following along, benefiting from his leading into the wind. The wind prevents building up any speed--my maximum speed was about 22 mph--so one is always working. But we kept going about 15-16 mph. Road surface was terrible--several miles of concrete, with cracks every 20 feet that jolted the body and particularly the butt. I decided to pass on possibly my only opportunity to see the Corn Palace in Mitchell. 8 blocks out of the way was just too much. 7 or 8 riders did not ride today because of anticipating the wind. Another 4 or 5 hung it up during the day. They should be well-rested for tomorrow. We did have stinging rain for awhile about noon, and temps got into the mid 80s--better than 90s. Very understandable. My body hurts all over. Neck, seat are main culprits. Legs are not ready for another 135 tomorrow, in only 9 hours. The hope is still for some break from the wind. Kathleen, the Des Moines Pastoral Counseling Center's Development Director, had a package of her famous homemade cookies, a couple of inspirational quotes, and list of those who have sent notes and/or made pledges to the Center's Counseling Assistance Fund, waiting for me when I arrived today. Now I have to decide if I will share the cookies. Thanks to all those who have pledged and who have sent well-wishes. Not to be passing the hat, like at a Methodist revival meeting, but if anyone is interested in pledging a penny or two or so per mile of this trip, call Kathleen at 515-274-4006. She can arrange for you to have a pledge card. The funds allow the Center to offer services to clients regardless of their financial resources.

July 22, Stage 16

July 22, Rapid City SD to Murdo, SD, 148 miles, 4180 climbing feet. Temp in the 90s, dropping into the 80s by later afternoon, when arrived into Murdo. Long day for a 10-15 mph headwind. Drafted some which helped. Doing the same thing tomorrow will be a challenge. We also lose an hour of sleep tonight. Crossed Cheyenne River. Badlands National Park was interesting--wind eroded formations that looked like moonscape at times and rough small mountains also. Sits out in the middle of nothing else. Had lunch there at 78 miles, and still had 70 miles to go. Exchanged leads for 45 miles with Bob, an attorney from CT, who I had ridden with a few days ago. Last 25, I could not stay with him, so rode in alone. Took a quick dip in the pool which felt wonderful. Last night, called Holly Emery, my niece, to wish her a Happy Birthday. She asked where I was on my trip, and I said, "Rapid City." She and her husband Eric, and sons Jack and Sam were also in Rapid City, having visited Mount Rushmore also. They had seen bikers there. We could have run into each other there. Anyway, they came to my motel and we had a brief visit. Holly also came over this morning to wish me a good ride. Wonderful to see real live people I care about, and get Holly's great hugs. Wheat and hay, John Deere tractors, an old Farmall. Only pictures were from the bike. No time to stop. I am dreading tomorrow being like today, except 3 miles shorter. Sometimes, it is hard to know how to keep the legs moving when they are in a state of exhaustion. Energy drinks, and supplements help, but they have their limits. I will hate getting out of bed in 8 hours.

July 21, Stage 15

July 21, Custer, SD to Rapid City SD, 45 miles, 2700 ft climbing. We had the option today of riding to the Crazy Horse memorial, and then on to Mount Rushmore, or riding through Custer State Park to Mount Rushmore, which was a more scenic option, with buffalo herds and other wildlife. I chose to see Crazy Horse and Rushmore. The morning was cloudy, the remains of a thunderstorm during the night. I got to Crazy Horse early, and clouds covered the monument. Sat through a movie about the idea and work to bring the monument to its present state. Wonderful visitor's center. Within about an hour, the clouds had begun to clear and the sun was shining on Crazy Horse's face. The monument has been about 50 years in the making and has probably another 25 or so to go. One guy started work on it and his widow and children have continued the project. The major work is done with drilling holes, putting dynamite into the holes and blasting the rock away. Then more detailed work is chiseled. It is much larger than Mount Rushmore, with more detail. It is devoted to the memory and traditions of all Native Americans. Then, on to Mount Rushmore. Impressive and majestic. Have lived for 36 years within a day's drive and have never been there. The location allows views from miles away. The sculptor was Borglen, who spent his entire life on the project. Then, on to lunch and another hour and a half with many ups and downs on a winding road to Rapid City. It was nice to have time to see something with a human touch, after days of arid terrain. Getting closer to the Midwest feels good. Hoping that the shorter mileage and shorter day will allow some needed rest for the legs and body. Next two days are with mileages in the 140s. Long days, but Jim Miles-Polka and I did 139 on my birthday ride the first of June. Weather forecast is for NNW wind tomorrow morning, and by afternoon shifting to north and northeast.

July 20, Stage 14

July 20, Gillette, WY to Custer, SD, 115 miles, 3500 climbing feet, mostly in the last 25 miles. At about 51 miles, as we entered Upton, WY, we passed the airport on the edge of town, and noticed a windsock blowing toward the southwest. We had a 15 mph tailwind nearly all day!! The first 85 miles were pretty flatish, some gradual climbs and descents, but the wind made everyone happy. After lunch at 77 miles and some more rolling flat, we entered South Dakota and started climbing again, but only 3-6% long grades and then sharp descents, all the way into Custer. We did see a huge coal refinery shortly after leaving Gillette, and then a number of coal trains during the day. Our government has been hard at work during the past 10 years in reviving the coal industry--I think that they call it "clean coal" these days. Oil industry is also alive an well in Wyoming. Saw several oilwell pump jacks along the way. For you city folks, pump jacks are those little mechanisms that sit in the middle of a field after an oil rig has drilled several thousand feet below the surface, and go up and down, pumping oil to the surface to be transported by a pipeline to a refinery. My brother, Ray, and I grew up with a father who maintained oilfield pump jacks for more than 39 years in southern Illinois. Got a glimpse of Devil's Tower off to the north of our route, probably 40 miles away. Some are more impressed with Devil's Tower than Mount Rushmore. Amazing how the terrain changed from desert conditions, to scrubby vegetation, to the Black Hills. Went by Jewel Cave visitors's center, but did not stop. Had first flat tire along the way with about 25 miles to go into Custer. A couple of other riders assisted me in putting in a new tube, in the middle of the 98 degree heat. Had dinner with the 16 year old ("What did you do for summer vacation.") and his father and their friend, all from Connecticutt, and one of the PACTour crew, a 23 year old guy who has crewed on several transcontinental bike rides. These folks put in a lot of work in keeping us all going. Everyone in a better mood today. Amazing how mood can be influenced by the direction of the wind! Tomorrow, it is the Crazy Horse memorial and Mount Rushmore, staying in Rapid City tomorrow night. Then a straight shot across SD, MN and WI. I need to put a new tire on the steed and go to bed.

July 19, Stage 13

July 19 (I got confused talking to Marsha and thought that this was Friday, the 13th. It felt like a Friday, the 13th. Just Stage 13.) Sheridan, WY to Gillette, WY (population 29,000). 110 miles, 3,500 climbing ft. Remember when I suggested last night that today should be an easier day, with 13 fewer miles and 3,000 fewer climbing feet? During the night, I began to wonder about the possibility of a headwind. 15-20 mph out of the east and south, the directions that we were headed all day. Temperature quickly rose above 90, and bounced around 100 off and on. (My bike computer has a thermometer built in, along with an altimeter.) So, it was a long, miserable day. The saving grace was that Fredrico, a thirties-something young guy from Italy, and I rode together about 60 of the miles, taking turns leading into the wind, switching after about 1-2 miles. As I said earlier, that made a big difference. Quite a few riders got into Gillette after we did--around 5 p.m. Terrain was a lot like eastern Colorado, with foothills, some irrigation, range pasture, abandoned houses, and businessesoccasional oil and gas installations, some cattle, one corn field--about waist-high, rare water in the form of creeks, rivers. Long 1-3% inclines and declines. For about 5 minutes, we had a slight tailwind. Staying at a new, huge Best Western. Ate at their restaurant since it was an all you can eat buffet. Got to pack in the protein. Lon Haldeman and Susan Notorangelo are the owners of PACTour, which they started more than 25 years ago (I may be repeating myself--the days all run into each other. The ride is very disorienting. Since my cell phone stopped picking up email, I have no idea what is going on in the world most of the time. There are advantages. Anyhow, each day, Lon and Susan provide a route sheet and a cue sheet, which shows any turns we make during the day. Some days, like today and yesterday, we were on US Route 14 the whole day. One couple on a tandem, made a wrong turn, adding 7 miles to their day. The hope tomorrow is for less headwind, and even a little tailwind. That would not seem too much to ask of the weather gods after two weeks of riding. If we can get into Custer, SD, tomorrow, we have a short, 70 mile day on Sunday, to give time to visit Mount Rushmore. Marsha says that Iowa should get a break in its hot weather in the next day or so. Usually, cooler weather in Iowa is accompanied with a wind out of the east and rain. The ride is having some "war of attrition" quality. Several riders have colds. Lon and Susan require us to wash our hands every time we stop for a food or liquid break.

July 18, Stage 12

July 18, Stage 12, Powell, WY to Sheridan, WY, 123 miles, 7300 ft climbing. This was the big crossing of the Big Horn Mountains day. The day began with 33 miles of flat to slightly downhill to the base of the Big Horns. I latched onto a pace line, going about 20-22 mph that knocked off the 33 miles in about an hour and a half, crossing Big Horn Lake, level with the desert area. After the rest stop, the 27 mile climb began with 2-3% grades, that gradually increased to 8%, and after 12 miles, increased to 10%, then to 13% for a half-mile stretch, before easing off to the 8-10% norm for the rest of the climb. The steepest grades eased off at 21 miles, 8,950 elevation. Some more downs and ups to the unnamed summit at 9,430 elevation. My speed was in the 4-5 mph range--could have thrown the bike over the side of the mountain and walked faster. Temperature kept rising--my forehead shows it--and I was sweating profusely. Wonderful mountain scenery, so I would stop every couple of miles to let my heart rate drop down. Could look ahead and see how the winding road had gained another thousand feet around a switchback or two. That was discouraging. Some say that it is better to not look ahead, just keep focused on what is right in front of you. Made it to the top about noon--3.5 hour climb including the breaks. I was pretty well shot, and still had 62 miles to get into Sheridan. Then, two wonderful things happened. No, not a rescue helicopter. An 8 mile descent that I topped out at 43 mph (a father and son on their tandem hit 50 mph today. Then, after lunch at mile 77, another climb of 5 miles, followed by an 11 mile descent that looked like those home or car ads, where the guy buys the house or car purely on the basis of being able to drive hairpin curves going to and from home. Pretty exciting going 35 mph, but also a little nerve-wracking, hoping that the road crew had swept away any sand or gravel. Temp had jumped into the 90s, so was unpleasant getting on into Sheridan. Great full rack of ribs dinner at the Wyoming Rib and Chop House. I must continue to eat more protein--spaghetti and meat sauce does not cut it. Glad that this day is over. Tomorrow into Gillette, WY will be a little shorter with not so much climbing.

July 17, Stage 11

July 17, Columbus, MT to Powell, WY, 110 miles, 4700 climbing feet. Felt lousy this morning, mainly from the headwind yesterday and riding in the fast paceline. Paceline riding is stressful. Focus has to be on the tire of the rider just ahead of you, which is 6-12 inches away. Also, one cannot enjoy scenery, since the focus is on that tire. Then, while leading the line, focus has to be on pieces of wood, pieces of tires, gravel, etc. We had crossed the Yellowstone River right after leaving Columbus. First 20 miles, I stayed with a group of about 10, but I was having to work hard doing that even though it was only a slight incline. Felt better going at my own pace. After the first stop, started a 20 mile stretch that was mostly climbing, beautiful ribbon-like road that wound across the gentle foothills. Some of the grades bounced up to 10 and 12%, but not for long. Some nice descents. Passed the remains from the Smith Mine disaster of 1943, I think. 74 men died. Mine never opened again. Rusted shell of building remain. After the climbs, the terrain was rolling, passing wind-eroded rock formations, and views of the surrounding mountains. Some agriculture, with large ranches, but very arid. Temperature stayed in 60s and low 70s until lunch (sloppy Joe's), when it jumped into the 90s. Lunch was on the Montana/Wyoming line. Got in about 3:30, cleaned up, did laundry in the motel room sink, hung it out in the sun on a luggage rack. Then dinner at Pizza Hut. A couple of riders are having Achilles problems. For me, neck was better today. My lower lip looks like the lips of folks who have been stranded in a raft in the middle of the ocean for days at a time. Cooler temps did help. Bed time now, since tomorrow is an early start as we climb the Big Horn Mountains, with 8, 10, and up to 14% grades. Very long day--123 miles. I will get in late.

July 16, Stage 10

July 16, Butte, MT to Columbus, MT, 105 miles, 3000 ft of climbing, tempurature ranged between 59 and 73, then back down to 64 at the finish. The 30 degree lower temperature was a welcome relief. This was one of the worst days of riding I have encountered. (At home, I always ride into the headwind going out, so that the wind becomes a tailwind to blow me home. Out here, there is no being blown home.) Headwind--20+ mph most of the day. This was supposed to be an easy day, with little climbing following an early climb. The early climb was riding on the shoulder of I-90 for about 20 miles, a gradual climb. Fortunately, I was able to ride with a few others to the first stop. Afterward, I could not keep up with them, so was riding on a frontage road along I-90 by myself, into the headwind, at about 13-15 mph. I was calculating how long it would take me to get to the finish for the day, and it did not seem pretty. Bikers are usually thinking in terms of how long it will take at a particular speed. On a day like this, calculating does not effectively take one's mind off what is going on with the body--some more neck pain, some seat pain, leg exhaustion, mental discouragement--wondering "why am I doing this--riding a bicycle across this god-forsaken state, while I could be sitting in my office in air-conditioning. Most days have a period of time when discouragement and exhaustion set in. Sometimes, salvation occurs. For a couple of miles, I could see these three riders gaining on me. They were in a paceline, taking turns leading for a mile at a time, with the other two getting a 30% saving of effort riding in the leader's draft. They invited me to join in, and my speed jumped from 14 to 20+. At the next stop, I contined with two of them, with each of us taking turns leading, except one guy wanted to lead for 9 miles--no one argued. Three sections of riding on the shoulder of I-90. At one point, the shoulder ended as we crossed an interstate bridge. No trucks, or cars were in the vicinity. We stayed together into Columbus, with some light rain coming down. At the end, the body usually feels spent. Amazing, though, is how that feeling leaves as soon as one arrives and gets off the bike. Then, the craving for sugar--cookies, soft drinks, etc.--sets in big time. PACTour has those provided at the end, along with potato chips, etc. Also amazing is how much a shower and clean clothes adds to the transformation. Then, spaghetti for dinner tonight, blogging, and off to bed, with another day in saddle coming tomorrow. Breakfast at 7:00. Supposed to be a tougher day. Next few days are longer, and the next two jump into the 6-7,000 ft climbing range, and steeper. The legs do seem to bounce back by morning. Hope they come through again.

July 15, Stage 9

July 15, Butte, MT to Bozeman, MT, 101 miles, 3300 ft of climbing, temps in high 90s and low 100s. Began the day with a fairly steep through mountain forests, winding road, 5-8% grade to the top of the continental divide at Pipestone Pass--6418 elevation. Then a 15 mile descent into Whitehall for the first check-in and re-fueling stop. Terrain changed to rolling arid area, with some agriculture--cattle, irrigation, couple horses, hay bales. This pleasant ride became challenging when we turned into a 20 mph headwind for 6-7 mile, several uphill. Just when I was ready to curse the gods rather than view the wind as spirit, the route turned east for the last 36 miles, and the wind became a tailwind at times. Followed the Madison River for 20 miles or so, viewing rafters and kayakers in the river. With the temps, would have been inviting to take a dip in the river. Of course, that creates its own problems with biking. Lunch along the river with the portable tents providing the only shade in 100 degrees. Biking does create its own breeze, so it is more pleasant than standing in the sun. Nevertheless, the high temps do heat up the body. Consuming liquids and taking electrolyte replacements helps to avoid overheating. Green pills and some caffiene did their job the last 25 miles. Actually got into Bozeman a little after 3:00. Starting to see snow-topped peaks in the distance. Tomorrow will be mostly rolling flat following a pretty good climb out of Bozeman, 105 miles into Columbus, MT. The Big Horn Mountains loom in the distance, about three days from now. Got a massage on the neck and legs after the ride today. Good dinner at Appleby's across the street from the Days Inn which is our home for the night. Talked to my Mom tonight--she is praying for me every night, which is a good thing. She worries a lot about the heat. Have been fortunate to have no mechanical problems--knock on wood. I think Mom would say, "touch wood."

July 14, Stage 8

July 14 Missoula to Butte, MT, 136 miles, 5400 ft of climbing. Gradual 1-2% climb for 85 miles, then 10 of 5-8% grades. Just when I thought we had a few more miles of climbing, it started levelling out, leading to a 14 mile descent into Anaconda, a copper-mining town. Then, ups and downs into Butte. Georgetown Lake at 6000 feet elevation. Twice today, we were routed onto the shoulder of I-90, about 6 miles each time. With the usual shoulder ground up glass, loose gravel, sand, chunks of wood, and travelling uphill, the first 40 or so miles were unpleasant. I actually felt good on the climb to the top of the pass, then encountered a fellow rider who had a flat tire. We used my CO2 canister connector, with a new tube and got him going. Fortunately I stayed with him, because he had 4 more flats, before we finished, much later than everyone else. PACTour had 2 re-fueling stops along the route, then lunch at mile 78, then another re-fueling stop with about 20 miles to go into Butte. At each stop, they check in each biker, so they know if someone has had trouble, or is otherwise going slow. They run a tight ship. Breakfast tomorrow at 7, load gear bags at 7:30 and leave. Should be a little easier day. Hip is better today. Neck is not. Legs are strong enough to do this. Check out the www.pactour.com website. Some of the riders have their blogs on the site, with pictures. Susan Notorangelo, one of the PACTour owners posts some pictures from the ride each day.

July 13, Stage 7

July 13, Thompson Falls, MT to Missoula, MT. 109 miles, 3729 ft climbing (nothing steep, just some 1-2% grades lasting 10-14 miles, headwind from the south most of the way. Another beautiful ride that began with the usual lake or two, river, tall tree-lined, then became more barren with rocks and mountains in the distance. Rode last 20 miles with Stuart, who was a good friend of Bob Breedlove and rode tandem with Bob at Paris-Brest-Paris in 1995. He told of how with 60 miles to go on that 750 mile ride, they encountered a woman from Switzerland who was ready to give up, and how Bob talked her into visualizing a familiar 60 mile ride she had done many times in her home country. She decided to go on and finished. Typical Bob. Stuart attended Bob's funeral. The pain in my hip has continued when off the bike, and the pain in the muscle along the left side of my neck, which has bothered me for months became more intense today. Marsha has been encouraging a visit to an urgent care clinic, so I decided to give it a try. Urgent care clinics are not open in Missoula on weekends. Since there is nothing to do in Missoula on weekends, no one gets hurt! No taxis or buses on weekends. I walked to St. Patrick's Hospital, asked to be seen and asked for Cortizone shots in my hip and neck. The nurse told me that they do not give Cortizone shots in the emergency room, which was reinforced by the doctor. Then he said he could give me shot of Kenalog, which he considered having the same effect as Cortizone. He did and both neck and hip are feeling a little better right now. I will continue the Ibuprofin just in case. Tomorrow is the longest day so far, into Butte--136 miles. First 100 miles are a gradual incline that becomes steeper at the top. Will be a long day. Hope to get in by 5 or 6. Should be warm again with plenty of sunshine--Don't know why this is Big Sky Country, but it is.

July 12, Stage 6

July 12, Happy Birthday, Brother Ray. Another pretty easy day in the saddle, from Sand Point, ID, to Thompson Falls, MT, 87 miles and 2500 climbing feet. Climbing feet means the cumulative feet gained on the uphills. In total altitude, we were about the same at Thompson Falls as in Sand Point, but all the ascents totalled the 2500 ft, mostly rolling gentle terrain. Temperatures were a little cooler. Averaged 17 mph. Passed several large lakes--Pend Orielle and Clarkfork were a couple. Gorgeous blue, lined with mountain trees. Hawks, eagles. Mostly on Route 200 today, some miles onto less travelled sections, with a few miles of packed dirt and sand. Terrific to ride for miles with little civilization--just nature. Rode with a moderately fast group of strong riders for about 2/3 of the day, then took some pictures, and came in with Bill and Jill (husband and wife) the last 20 miles. Interesting people on the ride. Bill is a physician from Wyoming. My roommate, Sid is an oil and gas engineer from Calgary. Jose is retired from a drug company, from Puerto Rico and has ridden the Vuelta 8 times. It is a three day ride around the perimeter of PR. Lance from Texas is a high school coach--enjoyable stories. His friend, Chris, is a strong rider, and getting over a cold. Giselle, from Perth, Australia, has ridden for years, and done many rides in the US, including RAGBRAI in 1989. It was not long enough for her. She is a small animal veterinarian. Scrambled eggs, sausage, and the usual oatmeal for breakfast. Lunch of hamburger, veggie burger, and potato salad at the end about 2:00. Dinner of spaghetti and salad bar at the "resort" where we are staying tonight. I think I have lost a couple of pounds. Back to the short post of three nights ago, where I was pleased with going 41.5 mph downhill. If you want a visual, watch the Tour de France, with those guys descending at 60 around curves. My descending is sort of like that. Also, keep in mind that three days ago, the Tour riders finished on level terrain, at 43 mph. All of you should be watching the Tour de France--one of the most colorful cinema events in the world. God is good. Because of road closures due to construction, tomorrow's route into Missoula will be 106 rather than the originally planned 135. Shouldn't be too much climbing.

July 11, Stage 5

July 11, another recovery day--Spokane to Sand Point in northern Idaho. 86 miles, 2700 feet of climbing. After spending some time getting out of Spokane, going by their beautiful court house, then back onto Route 2, which had brought us to Spokane yesterday. This was a biker's dream--15 mph wind out of the southwest and we were heading northeast! We had a nice shoulder and quite a bit of traffic. Starting to see some logging trucks. After about 50 miles, we turned off onto an older road parallel to Rt. 2. Very little traffic. Roller hills kind of like southern Iowa, but not as steep. Tree lined with tall pine, fir. Saw two Ospreys with nests atop telephone poles. Albeni Falls Dam, Pend Orielle Lake, Pend Lake. Got in by 2:30 and in the middle of the pack. Rode with two guys who do this each year--both 74 years old, so I do not have any bragging rights. Hot again, but with a tailwind, it does not matter. I am getting too much sun on my face, and lower lip is drying out and will likely split, but hey, this is fun! No need for Vitamin D supplement. Probable visit to the dermatologist along with the dentist. Marsha asked about meals (she has always fed me well). We have oatmeal for breakfast, along with fruit, OJ, coffee for those who prefer stimulants, bagels, peanut butter, jelly, usual stuff. Pactour cooks a meal along the route for lunch--today chicken fajitas and rice. Delicious. Dinner at local restaurants--on our own. Tomorrow Sand Point to Thompson Falls, Montana, looking out for wild and crazy folks. Meth is supposed to be popular up here. 86 miles. Cross Idaho at its narrowest, but I am counting it as a state I have crossed by bike. Ben has provided appropriate musical lyrics--"Idaho, Oh Idaho" today, and my 2.5 year old grandson Gabriel thinks I may need some EPO--he may be right.

July 10, Stage 4

July 10, Welcome recovery day. The day started with a 1500 or so foot climb out of Coulee Dam--dams are not located up high. 8-9% grade, heart rate up to 138 or so. After the first rest stop at 22 miles (rest stops are usually portable tents with a few portable canvas chairs, a selection of drinks--Heed and Sustained Energy are probably the best, but any junk food with sugar or salt works. (I am sure to have major dental work in about 6 months.) Sometimes the rest stops are in the shade, but usually alongside the road in the sun. Restrooms are usually provided by nature. I did not feel so well for the next 20 miles, but remembered that I happened to have a packet of "green pills" in my jersey pocket. John Prine sings about an "illegal smile." Green pills are legal, but they bring a smile to me about 30 minutes after downing them. They are sold as "Sure 2 Endure" and contain an herb called ciwujia (sp?) that helps the body to convert fat to energy. (Actually, they helped me on Monday and Tuesday, also.) Sure enough, 30 minutes later, I had this nice rush of energy, with speed picking up from 14 to 18. The effect lasts about two hours. My biking friend, Jim Aldeman, who introduced me to "Sure 2 Endure" in 1998, says that I am the only person he knows who experiences that effect. I tell him that "you gotta believe" in the green pills. At lunch, I consumed some "Mountain Dew," which added to the green pills effect. Since I am a Methodist, I tend to avoid caffiene, so when I indulge, my heart gets going. When Route 2 turned northwest into Spokane for the last twenty miles, the combined effect of green pills, Mountain Dew and a tailwind had me really moving and feeling great. Got in at 3, did my laundry, and felt/feel pretty good. How about this for a roommate--Sid Turner had an iced down beer ready for me. It was another hot day--95-100 degrees. Saw Roosevelt Lake, foothills, deserts. wheat fields, long, straight highways that stretched forever. A word about riding on the shoulder of major highways, with cars, motorhomes, semis, etc., flying by at 70 mph and about five feet away. This is one of those things in life for which I use the psychological defense mechanism of DENIAL. Now that I have mentioned it, you turn on your own capacity for denial. Life works better that way. "Don't worry, be happy." The shoulders have ranged from 3-8 feet wide, with most today in the wider range. Of course, there a rocks, gravel and glass pieces to watch out for. About 85 miles today, 4200+ feet of climbing. Tomorrow is supposed to be a beautiful ride through forests after leaving Spokane and entering Idaho. Sorry if some of these are a bit lengthy. As the days blend together, they will be my memory record. Thanks to Marsha for taking cyber dictation and doing the blog by phone last night since I did not have wifi.

July 9

July 8: Not a good day to wear black - 108 degrees this afternoon. Steep climb through beautiful tree lined route in the Okanagan National Forest. Climb topped out at 4020feet. Achieved 41.5mph during one stretch downhill. The fun ended about noon as the temp climbed into the high nineties. Tomorrow should be a shorter day and less elevation gain. Today was 104 miles, 6275 climbing feet. Current location is Coulee Dam, Washington headed for Spokane tomorrow. Limited WiFi currently.

July 8, Stage 2

July 8, Sedro Woolley to Winthrop, WA A long day in the saddle. The first 55 miles were quite flat and fast. The next 40 had an average incline of 6%, with 7 and 8 tossed in for variety. The next 30 were downhill--more later. Views of the Northern Cascades were spectacular--used that word yesterday, but these were the real thing! Mt. Baker, waterfalls, tree canopied roads, mountain lakes and streams, ferns, a white-footed rabbit, couple of deer--the creation that is ever-evolving. The grind up hill was relentless--I will say that again in the Big Horns in a few days. It was a long day because travelling 6-8 mph does not take a chunk out of 40 miles very quickly. Heart rate was bouncing up to 130 or so a few times. (Marsha, relax.) I am so glad Ernie Fisher ordered and installed a 32 tooth cog in the back and a longer cage derailleur last Tuesday. With a 27 as my maximum gear in the rear, I would not have made it today. Five miles from the top of the climb, the support crew tried to talk me into letting them drive me to the top, and then I could coast down the other side. They said, "it is 4:00 o'clock, you know." I blurted out: "That would be cheating." I rode on to the top of Washington Pass, then this incredible descent for 6 miles--32 to 39.5 mph--wanted to hit 40--with mountain scenery all around that I pretty much did not see. Then more sections of downhill, finally levelling out into Winthrop--a nice little western-type town. I finished the day at 6:30, with a few folks still out on the road. Actually, I felt and feel pretty good. Took a few pictures. Ate well--Gu, Essential Amino tablets, Oreos, pretzels, Pringles, turkey sandwich, more junk, more sugar, Perpetuem, Heed, Gatorade, Sustained Energy, watermelon, peaches, chips, and Chips Ahoy. Will sleep well tonight. We get to sleep in for another hour tomorrow since it is a short day. After the first 20 miles toward Grand Coulee tomorrow, 2000 ft climb in the next 10 miles, then ups and downs for a total of 99.5 miles. Thanks for reading. Ellery (limited Sprint coverage out here)

July 7, Stage 1

July 7, Everett, WA to Sedro Woolley, 95 miles, 5000 ft of climbing Spectacular day of riding in the Pacific NW. Spent most of the day on Whidbey Island--conifer tree-lined roads for the first 20 miles, then along the west side of the island with occasional fishing villages, sail boats, Puget Sound islands in the distance, and the Olympic Mountains in the further distance. This is the area where Ben lived, worked, and then attended The Evergreen State College, starting in 1994. Pacific Northwest and now Kona--how did he discover the secret to the good life so early? Our route eventually crossed Deception Pass, which merited a few pictures--of Puget Sound islands and the Olympics. For sure, this is not Iowa. Both the climbs and the descents are longer, and the scenery.... I am feeling great, with some nagging hip pain when I get off the bike. The massage therapist says it is probably due to overuse, which is code for "you have been biking too much this last month, given your aged body." If her work on the hip does not heal, Ibuprofen, and eventually Marsha's painkillers are ready to help. Tomorrow we head east from Sedro Woolley to Winthrop, with one climb that lasts about 40 miles, getting steeper the last several miles. 126 miles, with 7600 feet of climbing. I appreciate everyone's support.

July 6

July 6--Everett, WA 10 hours from now the ride begins. Sunday should be a gorgeous day/ride. We ride 7 miles to the Mulkiteo ferry, cross over to Whidbey Island, which goes 60-70 miles north with views of Puget Sound, Olympic Peninsula, and other typical amazing Pacific Northwest natural attractions. At the north end of Whidbey, we take a bridge back over the mainland with the first night at Sedro Woolley. Today was spent packing and re-packing (trying to determine the necessary nutrition, and other essentials for a destination ride, rather than knowing that one is coming back home at the end, while at the same time minimizing unnecessary weight), taking a ride down to tomorrow's ferry and back to see if the legs still work, meeting new people, some of whom are very serious riders. Had dinner with a guy who rode tandem with Bob Breedlove in Paris-Brest-Paris in 2003. I have with me the 1999 PBP jersey that Bob gave me when he could not do PBP, the year I did it with Jim and Matt Aldeman.

July 4

42 mile ride on a beautiful morning with Jim and Mark.  Last "training ride."  Off to Seattle tomorrow morning.

Tuesday, July 2

Five days before he start of a trip I have dreamed of, considered, fantasized about for 15 years.  Difficulty sleeping.  Pretty well packed.  Bike arrived at the start hotel in Everett, WA today, thanks to UPS.  300 miles per week for the past 4 weeks has me in pretty good shape.  We will see.  Some long days in the saddle coming up.