August 4, Stage 29

August 29, Parkersburg, WV to Elkins, WV, 123 miles, 7200 climbing feet. This was a day that I dreaded given the length and the amount of climbing, but unanticipated things can make dread worse. Morning started just great, riding on the shoulder of US 50, which by the way runs cross country about 11 miles from my hometown in southern Illinois (100 miles east of St. Louis). A few years ago, NPR did a series on US 50--I forget who narrated the series--followed it all across the country. Anyhow, the mist and clouds hung over the forested mountains--looked like the home page for Google Chrome. This was the Robert C. Byrd Appalachian Highway. All was well until I had a flat rear tire about two miles short of the first stop at 28 miles. Fixed the flat, which I hate to do--could not find anything in the tire. A half mile later, the new tube was flat. I assumed something was wrong with the tire. Decided to ride it flat to the re-fueling stop, which is risky. The guy handling the stop had a tire that would fit and a couple of spare tubes. I changed the tire and the tube, but that takes time. By this time, I was quite a ways behind everyone else and PACTour does not like for folks to not keep up. The guy handling the stop offered to sag me ahead to the next stop--20 miles, but I declined. Got to the next stop and was told that I was on the bubble as to whether I would be mandatorily sagged forward to lunch--30 miles ahead. I refueled, grabbed some cookies and Pringles, and headed out. One couple on a tandem was right behind me and they were sagged. I was feeling performance pressure, so was not able to enjoy the old cars, Lazy Boys on the front porch, and general poverty reflected on the beautiful narrow road that would up and down and in and out for 20 miles or so. The road had been carved out of the side of the mountain many years ago, reflecting the terrain, rather than modifying it. Looked like sandstone, with a pretty good drop-off five feet away from the edge of the road. Lots of potholes and attempts to patch worn areas. Took at picture of the Churchville Methodist Church--they have not added United to the sign. Beautiful scenery--I know, I keep saying the same thing. John Denver's song describes it head on. Once one is off of the interstate system, the WV world is special. I pulled into lunch on the grounds of the Weston Lunatic Asylum, the largest sandstone building in the world, except for the Kremlin. It must be 500 feet long and five stories tall. Lobotomies, and who knows what other "advanced" treatment of patients who were depressed, anxious, probably with undiscovered/unacknowledged abuse, etc. They give tours and have a museum of the treatment used. It has been closed for years. I was the last one in at lunch. One thing that I enjoy every other day when it is available is Tapioca. I found then that Susan had set up the next refueling stop at 99 miles to wait for me if I wanted to ride all the way. I left lunch at 2:00 and headed into some pretty good, slow hills. Made it to the stop, where the guy in charge of it graciously had waited for me and had thought of driving the route to see if I was okay. I was pretty well wiped out at this point, but realized that I was on my own and it did not matter how long it took. A couple of 2-3 mile steep inclines had me in my lowest gear, but then I began to notice the shadows from the trees across the road. I slowed down and began to enjoy the trip, keeping an eye on the cars and trucks that occasionally flew by. Finally got into Elkins about 6:00--stopped at Walgreens for some additional saddle sore medication, and McDonald's for supper. My roommate, Dave, had my bag in the room, as usual, and had tossed some of my shorts from yesterday into the laundry. Tomorrow, on to Harrisonburg, VA. 10K or so feet of climbing, squeezed into 106 miles. About bed time for my legs. Up at 5:45, breakfast at 6:30 and head out at 7:00.