July 27, Stage 21

July 27, La Crosse, WI to Portage, WI, 128 miles, 4300 climbing feet. Wind NW. Sometimes, when you wish for cooler weather, you get it. La Crosse had record low temperature last night--49 degrees when we had breakfast in the Marriott Courtyard parking lot, and prepared to leave. At the last minute, I had put in my full-finger Wind-Breaker gloves, and my leg warmers, that I almost sent home with Marsha. I had also almost sent home a fleece lined PACTour jacket that I figured would be nice for rides in Feb/March in Iowa, or just to wear around and show off, as a conversation starter. Temps never got above 60 and stayed mostly in the upper fifties. I wore the jacket and leg warmers all day. Cloudy, overcast, beautiful clouds all day. Rain held off until right now. The day started out of La Crosse with a 600 elevation gain, 8-10% climb. I was about the last one up the hill, because most of these folks are excellent climbers. A couple have asked me where I do hill training in Iowa. (If I am repeating myself here, forgive me.) My hill training is mainly the Grand Ave hill from 63rd to 56th St., maybe 3/8 of a mile and 90 feet of elevation gain. Or, Pifer Hill on the way to New Virginia--9% grade, about a quarter mile. We had two more 8-9% climbs during the morning. Those really wipe me out. The last 60 miles were flattish, ups and downs on secondary roads through woods, forests--oak, maple, pine. Crossed the Wisconsin River. This was probably the most beautiful day of the trip. Somehow, Wisconsinites did not clear cut the trees, as did the farmers from my home state of Illinois. The vistas were picture-perfect, with the clouds as a backdrop. Hardly any pictures, since I had the full-finger gloves and wanted to beat the probable rain, so you will have to take my word for it. Or, you can asked Ben's wife, Joanna, who is a card-carrying Cheesehead. The cue sheet was 4 sheets today with all the turns that we made on these random, little-used roads. John and Cindy from DC ride a tandem--thirty-somethings. They have their route cue sheet fastened to the back of John's jersey, so that Cindy can look at it and inform John of the upcoming turns. After the route flattened out, I realized that I could follow them, relying on Cindy's directions to John. If I had not followed them, I might still be out in the Wisconsin woods. Tomorrow, on to Manitowoc, 125 miles.