July 28, Stage 22

July 28, Portage, WI to Manitowoc, WI, 127 miles, 4000 ft climbing. Another chilly morning that stayed chilly all day. 49 degrees this morning, wih temps bouncing up toward 60, then dropping back down. Strong wind mainly out of the west, some north. Route stair-stepped east, then north, over and over again. A few steep climbs. The altimeter on my computer registered 16-17% grade on one short climb, and 11-12 on another. Those take everything to slowly keep the pedals turning. Rain threatened, showered some after lunch, but held off again until we were off the road. Beautiful countryside, with dairy cows, horse-drawn buggies and horse-drawn steel-wheeled wagons transporting logs, field-stone houses. Passed by a prison, had lunch in Mt. Calvary that has a huge church that would have been nice to explore. As it was, we rolled into town in the middle of a parade. I also did not stop at the Cedar Crest Ice Cream Factory. The major feature of arriving in Manitowoc is that we now take the Badger Ferry--steam-powered, I think--across Lake Michigan tomorrow afternoon, arriving in Ludington, MI about 7 p.m. Then back on the road Tuesday morning, headed to Grand Rapids. After the first two days of this 7-day period, with the headwinds, and high mileage, I had concern about being able to handle the next 5 days. Favorable winds and rolling hills, much like what I am used to in central Iowa, helped me to survive. I felt like crying upon getting here for a break day, but decided that would not be manly. Having the day off of the bike is a real gift. PACTour, 30 years old, in 90 crossings of the country, has never before taken a day off. These folks are hard-corps. Getting to sleep in tomorrow morning will be a change from awakening at 5:00, getting organized, getting the bike ready, eating breakfast and being on the road by 6:30. I am running out of interesting stuff to talk about. If anyone has curiosity about something, let me know. Mentally and physically, I am pretty worn down, but that does not seem to limit me once I get going in the morning. Had great conversation with Jonathon from Australia over great dinner of seafood and pasta. He is an oncologist. Says that the depression his patients have, and are willing to discuss with him, is an existential depression since life and death are the reality. He says that most people do not have someone to open up those questions. Going to have the hotel--EconoLodge--do my laundry tonight. I am going to hit the sack. Marsha tells me that Joyce and Harold Templeman and Bill Cotton all have birthdays around this time of year. I missed granddaughter Jackie's birthday last week. I was late acknowledging granddaughter Jackie's second birthday last week.